Seriously . . .
I'm sitting at the fire, watching the sets because of a knee injury (see below), and need to rest. It's a nice fire, a seat constructed from washed up phone poles and a timber 12" by 4" rustic, driftwood about 12 feet long.
I claim status as a master campfire builder beach fire. We're stacking the big stuff, building a coal bed, setting up for extended fire into the night.
OK and so this drop-dead wonderful curly red-haired girl walks onto the beach, headed for the beach fire. (It's public beach fire, for everyone. Not mine!)
"Mind if I join you?"
OMG! I can only pray to the surf dieties that you might sit here . . . !!! . . . "Yes, do! You wanna smoke some doobie?" Ohhhhhhhhhh wait . . . I left the pipe in the car. Let me go get it!"
"It's OK, I have a spliff here I brought myself. You wanna beer?"
Ohhhhhhhhhhhhhhh !!! Perfect !!! No beer, thanks. I'll just cleanse my palate sipping off yours. Get the weed taste and dry out of my mouth.k You're the red-haired girl Charlie Brown is in love with, aren't you? I'm Allison, what's your name?"
"Destiny."
Glanced at my watch. It was 4:20 PST --That's no bullshit . . . 4:20 PST.
Full disclosure here . . . She was watching her hubby, "Coast Guard Bob" on the red Hobie, 9'4", spectacular board wrangler -- but it goes to confirm that my destiny here is working out, figuratively, literally.
. . . down the tube . . .
. . . DOWN THE TUBE . . .
Sunday, February 28, 2016
Sports Injuries --
Pulled the knee from lost footing on beach boulders. Diagnosed as "hematoma" -- blood migrating from knee injury to tissues in rest of the leg. Sore, weak, awkward to walk but not raging pain. Rest and ice . . .
Otherwise the fitness routine is working, weight down to 223 lbs. this AM. Feeling stronger, eating better.
Rip current in the Cove is complicated. Yesterday I was being sucked off the beach, hard to stand in knee deep water. Suck on waves would run water depth from belly-button to skeg dragging . . . Tide flooding, and interval very close together. Waves on waves.
We're learning. I need to figure where to balance on the 6'5" board, get feet on board rather than out in water, paddle and see too . . . I need more flexibility, strength, endurance.
Otherwise the fitness routine is working, weight down to 223 lbs. this AM. Feeling stronger, eating better.
Rip current in the Cove is complicated. Yesterday I was being sucked off the beach, hard to stand in knee deep water. Suck on waves would run water depth from belly-button to skeg dragging . . . Tide flooding, and interval very close together. Waves on waves.
We're learning. I need to figure where to balance on the 6'5" board, get feet on board rather than out in water, paddle and see too . . . I need more flexibility, strength, endurance.
Friday, February 26, 2016
Pirates . . .
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| Arrrrrrrrrrrrrgh ! ! ! |
Last Monday Feb. 22 -- We were at Taco Bell and convinced some kids there (6 to 12 yrs.) that I was a pirate. We lure children out to the ship, sail off to a tropical island and make them surf all day long. Arggggggggggggh ! ! !
And so . , , knee issues are indeterminate. Can't figure if it's getting better or worse. Affected area is moving around. Side of knee is OK, but now feels like I pulled a calf muscle, or something . . .
Naproxen Sodium (Alleve, generic name) some stretching . . . Can't decide if the exercise and stretches are helping or making it worse.
Speaking of pirates -- Some surf spots are populated with some really territorial surf types, a curious mix of surfer and Clatsop Co. belligerent redneck hillbilly. Their sort of attitude and aggressive territorial demeanor makes me consider carrying a concealed handgun (per permit).
OTOH, they shared their smoke with me . . .
I understand and appreciate their concerns about not having their wave be overrun by less than world-class surfers. It's world class surf.
And so . . . this photo is totally PhotoShopped. Not really happening, and you can't get out there from here.
Tuesday, February 23, 2016
Jus'nother day @ the office . . . ☆☆☆☆
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| Suit up o' ye Ancient Mariner . . . |
Update FaceBook and then link the images to the blog here. This blog software works better w/ the Windows. Here's the 'FaceBite link --
"Fourt Wenty, TokeLand WA
https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100010328199447
AKA Allison Wunderland, also on FaceBite . . . but you don't need to visit Alice on FaceBite -- She's here and 4:20, ya know? LMAO
OK -- Ohhhhhhhhh Yeah, you should catch "Surf's Up" -- 2007 movie, animated w/ Zooey DesChanel, Jeff Bridges as voices . . . Quintessential surf mythology, animated. They have a special team to do feathers and hair on the birds !!!
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| Duct Tape Stringer on Carpet . . . The stuff on the desk is LEGAL here ! ! ! |
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| Ready for the commute . . . |
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| Flooding tide, waning gibbous moon, about 0920 PST |
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| Swell ! ! ! . . . breaking left . .
This is about 4:20 . . . seriously, Destiny is a red haired chef, her hubby a surfer. She had beer too. LMAO
| . |
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| Time to head to the WiFi and file this report ! ! ! |
Knee pull injury from first day on the beach w/ 10' board, and negotiating large boulders. Getting better, we're working on resolving, healing.
Doing stretches, some balance work. Building this fire and hauling wood all day is weight work. I got a walk in out to the end of Sunset Dr. Trail head, State Park for Tillamook Head.
Perfect day!
Monday, February 22, 2016
Skate Park ! ! !
Lana & Nigel at the Seaside skate park. I tried her 8" and went out for a 8.5" -- More like the 20" I was riding in the 60's.
And so we headed back to CLEANLINE SURF SHOP
and came out w/ a Sector 9 "Joel Tudor" in 8.5. (No clue who Joel Tudor is.)
The recess in the underside is for prepping your bong hit . . . LMAO
I was able to use the skate park fence as a training rail, figure out the boards, where to stand. Unlike the 20" -- these boards are large enough to step around on, move the feet.
There's a new concept! I'm used to one foot over each truck, like being on a skate.
And so we headed back to CLEANLINE SURF SHOP
and came out w/ a Sector 9 "Joel Tudor" in 8.5. (No clue who Joel Tudor is.)
The recess in the underside is for prepping your bong hit . . . LMAO
I was able to use the skate park fence as a training rail, figure out the boards, where to stand. Unlike the 20" -- these boards are large enough to step around on, move the feet.
There's a new concept! I'm used to one foot over each truck, like being on a skate.
Rest & Recovery --
I'm wiped out . . . generally muscle fatigued like post weight work. Left knee pull is resolving. Somewhere I picked up a lot of nasal congestion -- (pot smoking, but it feels like allergies).
Today we're resting, recovery . . . physically tired, a bit weak/stiff, clumsy -- typical of post workout fatigue.
The 6'5" board is way easier to get down to the beach. Once in the water it's a "float board" and so far my "flotation" has been hanging off the side, or barely bellied up on top while rollers come through in the waist deep water.
Theoretically, the board acts as a water foil, not a float -- Balance and stability are dynamic, best attained by moving through the water rather than floating on the water. And so, when I catch a wave, I need to carve into the wave and traverse the face. This should make balance dynamic rather than wobble on the board. I understand the moves to body surf a wave. Now I just need to integrate the board under me and traverse rather than riding straight in -- which I've done all my life. Traversing the face is a new idea!
Yesterday I got floated on my back in the water and felt a bit like a turtle. Off balance and hard to roll over -- although rolling merely requires "swimming" rather than floating on the surface.
We're on the toe of the learning curve!
Today we're resting, recovery . . . physically tired, a bit weak/stiff, clumsy -- typical of post workout fatigue.
The 6'5" board is way easier to get down to the beach. Once in the water it's a "float board" and so far my "flotation" has been hanging off the side, or barely bellied up on top while rollers come through in the waist deep water.
Theoretically, the board acts as a water foil, not a float -- Balance and stability are dynamic, best attained by moving through the water rather than floating on the water. And so, when I catch a wave, I need to carve into the wave and traverse the face. This should make balance dynamic rather than wobble on the board. I understand the moves to body surf a wave. Now I just need to integrate the board under me and traverse rather than riding straight in -- which I've done all my life. Traversing the face is a new idea!
Yesterday I got floated on my back in the water and felt a bit like a turtle. Off balance and hard to roll over -- although rolling merely requires "swimming" rather than floating on the surface.
We're on the toe of the learning curve!
Saturday, February 20, 2016
FunBoard ! ! !
FUNBOARD
http://www.surfscience.com/topics/types-of-surfboard/funboard/funboard-surfboard/
We’ve grouped these surfboard designs all in the funboard category because that’s what we feel they are… fun! These
boards can range from 6-8ft and typically have a rounder body with a
little more width. That’s pretty much where the common traits stop
because you can have a funboard in almost any tail, rail or fin design.
Funboards
make a great transition or learning board but can also be a good way to
add some variety to the way you normally surf. They work well in most
conditions, from the very small and mushy all the way up to head high.
The extra width in the shape makes them more stable and forgiving, which
is a much appreciated feature to many new surfers.When you ride a
funboard expect a very diverse riding experience.
Though
they are not short enough to maneuver like a high performance
shortboard, they do tend to have a decent amount of pivotal and rail
turning ability. The extra size will let you catch waves earlier and
you can even walk around on the deck a little, maybe even sneak in a
nose ride. This is a great board if you don’t want to be lugging around
all the foam of a 10ft log but you would like to keep your wave count
up, even in the dry season.
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What have we learned in the past couple days?
First of all, beach access -- For my skill level, fitness level I need to park at end of Avenue U and flat, sandy hump down to the water. Also the surf is less technical, less affected by the rip at the point.
Ten foot board seems cool as hell and likely perfect for learning and my "old school" "old fart" style. That said, it's heavy, catches in the wind, hard to carry under the arm. Mostly it's big and heavy.
This larger board will be perfect for me once I gain some fitness, skill. But at present what I need is a board to paddle and ride prone, maybe kneel paddle --
What I got is used, 6'5" 22" 3 1/8" vol. Harder rail toward the back, more 50/50 up front. Five fin. I have 3 installed. (Pared back to one in center now.) Rear kick pad. This should be a nice "fart around board" . . . paddle, catch inside rollers and ride prone work on pop up and kneeling.
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In other news . . .
Kids at the skateboard park are using a stunt board, shorter, upturn ends wider, concave top, for wheel standing. One young warrior tried to flip spin and land on my '62 vintage 20" -- wheels shattered. Old first generation urethane wheels apparently degrade and get brittle! Poor kid was beside himself.
"No sweat, it's old and wheels are whacked. Better you break 'em than have them break me."
New wheels and bearings run about $50, and not quite right. Retire the board . . .RIP, served well and proudly.
My Sector 9 board is for street rides, rather than stunts in the bowl. My speed, for training, balance, aerobic.
"No sweat, it's old and wheels are whacked. Better you break 'em than have them break me."
New wheels and bearings run about $50, and not quite right. Retire the board . . .RIP, served well and proudly.
My Sector 9 board is for street rides, rather than stunts in the bowl. My speed, for training, balance, aerobic.
What I have is a "street board." More suited to flat streets, carving
turns. Skate Park has some hot riders! Scary hot! "Lords of Dawg Town." I
have is a "street board." More suited to flat streets, carving turns.
Skate Park has some hot riders! Scary hot! "Lords of Dawg Town.
2/21/2016 Sun. Got on the water w/ the 6"5' here. Easy to carry, manage. It's a belly board right now. Speedo swim goggles for eyes, salt water & sun blinding. Not really able to see the sets coming at me through the squinty.
I got the weight machines back up and running. They needed lubrication -- Nice option for aerobic, low weight / high rep workouts. I don't need to do formal "sets" -- just work the muscles like riding a bicycle or anything else moderately aerobic.
COWABUNGA ! ! !
Friday, February 19, 2016
SkateBoard Park, Seaside
I can roll on the flats, cut up the walls, arcs, check turns . . .Yeah, not my first day on a skateboard. (But the last one was 20")
There's a flat meander through it, gentle slopes, inclines, a flat area to hot-dog. I think I can probably handle this -- and the kids are in school during the day! LMAO
There's a flat meander through it, gentle slopes, inclines, a flat area to hot-dog. I think I can probably handle this -- and the kids are in school during the day! LMAO
Thursday, February 18, 2016
Wingnut & Retro Classic Longboard Style
Wingnut on Classic Longboard Style
Very nice discussion specific to longboard style and moves. Board design, and the YouTube video keys in on a series of longboard video --
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Re-locate the HQ, Mick's @ Seaside is closer to the beach. |
Beat dead-tired from today, pulled the left knee on heading out from lost balance in the rocks. But I learned heaps. The Cove is some complex current, rip current along the south shore and out to the point. Beach access is tricky. Carry the longboard on the head, not under the arm.
Yoga . . . strength training, aerobic, balance.
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BITCHIN' |
Yoga for Surfers -- 17 min. workout
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6LGoUz4PG94
This runs through all the surf specific muscles, stretching, strength . . . I'm gonna need to train for this . . .
This runs through all the surf specific muscles, stretching, strength . . . I'm gonna need to train for this . . .
Surf's Up
High surf advisory coming up the coast, rain, windy. Conditions are gnarly -- high tide, high surf, no place for me to dink around in prone on the whitewater.
We're reading and watching a lot of video demo/coaching.
SurfCoaches.com is a good spot, lots of discussion of the basics, wave, peaks, brakes, closeout, tide, boards, stance, pop up, etc.
I'm just starting to look at this site.
The Surfer's Journal 25.1 has a good article on single fin versus multi, what they do, how they work.
Beginning to grasp what "style" is about and how different boards provide a different ride on different waves. My board should provide a decent ride, stable, arcing carves. No digging, no pumping. This is more "old school" -- but also "old fart" style.
We are beginning to appreciate the role fitness, strength, flexibility plays in this. We're "training. Wt. was 223.8 this AM. That's a start. We need to flex, stretch, weight train, and aerobic . . . I wanna get under 200 lbs some more!
AllisonWunderlandBlog.blogspot.com -- This is the physical conditioning record. I've been slacking, but lots and lots of "weight work" lifting boulders, building a "water feature." More veggies, more fish, cut out the cheese and salami ! ! !
I gotta go ! ! !
We're reading and watching a lot of video demo/coaching.
SurfCoaches.com is a good spot, lots of discussion of the basics, wave, peaks, brakes, closeout, tide, boards, stance, pop up, etc.
I'm just starting to look at this site.
The Surfer's Journal 25.1 has a good article on single fin versus multi, what they do, how they work.
Beginning to grasp what "style" is about and how different boards provide a different ride on different waves. My board should provide a decent ride, stable, arcing carves. No digging, no pumping. This is more "old school" -- but also "old fart" style.
We are beginning to appreciate the role fitness, strength, flexibility plays in this. We're "training. Wt. was 223.8 this AM. That's a start. We need to flex, stretch, weight train, and aerobic . . . I wanna get under 200 lbs some more!
AllisonWunderlandBlog.blogspot.com -- This is the physical conditioning record. I've been slacking, but lots and lots of "weight work" lifting boulders, building a "water feature." More veggies, more fish, cut out the cheese and salami ! ! !
I gotta go ! ! !
Wednesday, February 17, 2016
NEW SURFBOARD ! ! !
We tried it before . . . short story is mostly about shark paranoia. We're over it
North Pacific Surfboards, "Art Colyer" PDX shaper 10' 1" x 21 1/2" x 3" pointed nose, square tail, 9" single fin, medium rocker, medium edge rails.
Flotation City, med. responsive. Perfect to learn on.
Lots and lots and lots of videos on YouTube coaching/teaching surf basics -- Which I need. Looking now at pop up and stance. I need to gain some fitness. Surfing should motivate that. I'm eating better, getting out, less bored (more board) . . . Meeting a lot of social connections ! ! !
.
"We're all gonna die sooner or later. Let's die surfing!"
North Pacific Surfboards, "Art Colyer" PDX shaper 10' 1" x 21 1/2" x 3" pointed nose, square tail, 9" single fin, medium rocker, medium edge rails.
Flotation City, med. responsive. Perfect to learn on.
Lots and lots and lots of videos on YouTube coaching/teaching surf basics -- Which I need. Looking now at pop up and stance. I need to gain some fitness. Surfing should motivate that. I'm eating better, getting out, less bored (more board) . . . Meeting a lot of social connections ! ! !
.
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