I'm wiped out . . . generally muscle fatigued like post weight work. Left knee pull is resolving. Somewhere I picked up a lot of nasal congestion -- (pot smoking, but it feels like allergies).
Today we're resting, recovery . . . physically tired, a bit weak/stiff, clumsy -- typical of post workout fatigue.
The 6'5" board is way easier to get down to the beach. Once in the water it's a "float board" and so far my "flotation" has been hanging off the side, or barely bellied up on top while rollers come through in the waist deep water.
Theoretically, the board acts as a water foil, not a float -- Balance and stability are dynamic, best attained by moving through the water rather than floating on the water. And so, when I catch a wave, I need to carve into the wave and traverse the face. This should make balance dynamic rather than wobble on the board. I understand the moves to body surf a wave. Now I just need to integrate the board under me and traverse rather than riding straight in -- which I've done all my life. Traversing the face is a new idea!
Yesterday I got floated on my back in the water and felt a bit like a turtle. Off balance and hard to roll over -- although rolling merely requires "swimming" rather than floating on the surface.
We're on the toe of the learning curve!
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